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their satisfaction by grins and shouts； by rolling on deck； or by a headlong leap overboard。 Schoolboys on an unexpected holiday； Irishmen at a fair； or mid…shipmen on shore； would give but a faint idea of the exuberant animal enjoyment of these people。
Under similar circumstances Malays could not behave as these Papuans did。 If they came on board a vessel （after asking permission）； not a word would be at first spoken； except a few compliments； and only after some time； and very cautiously； world any approach be made to business。 One would speak at a time； with a low voice and great deliberation； and the mode of making a bargain would be by quietly refusing all your offers； or even going away without saying another word about the matter； unless advanced your price to what they were willing to accept。 Our crew； many of whom had not made the voyage before； seemed quite scandalized at such unprecedented bad manners； and only very gradually made any approach to fraternization with the black fellows。 They reminded me of a party of demure and well…behaved children suddenly broken in upon by a lot of wild romping； riotous boys； whose conduct seems most extraordinary and very naughty。 These moral features are more striking and more conclusive of absolute diversity than oven the physical contrast presented by the two races； though that is sufficiently remarkable。 The sooty blackness of the skin； the mop…like head of frizzly hair； and； most important of all； the marked form of countenance of quite a different type from that of the Malay； are what we cannot believe to result from mere climatal or other modifying influences on one and the same race。 The Malay face is of the Mongolian type； broad and somewhat flat。 The brows are depressed； the mouth wide； but not projecting； and the nose small and well formed but for the great dilatation of the nostrils。 The face is smooth； and rarely develops the trace of a beard； the hair black； coarse； and perfectly straight。 The Papuan； on the other hand； has a face which we may say is compressed and projecting。 The brows are protuberant and overhanging； the mouth large and prominent； while the nose is very large； the apex elongated downwards； the ridge thick； and the nostrils large。 It is an obtrusive and remarkable feature in the countenance； the very reverse of what obtains in the Malay face。 The twisted beard and frizzly hair complete this remarkable contrast。 Hero then I had reached a new world； inhabited by a strange people。 Between the Malayan tribes； among whom I had for some years been living； and the Papuan races； whose country I had now entered； we may fairly say that there is as much difference； both moral and physical； as between the red Indians of South America and the negroes of Guinea on the opposite side of the Atlantic。
Jan。 1st； 1857。…This has been a day of thorough enjoyment。 I have wandered in the forests of an island rarely seen by Europeans。 Before daybreak we left our anchorage； and in an hour reached the village of Har； where we were to stay three or four days。 The range of hills here receded so as to form a small bay； and they were broken up into peaks and hummocks with intervening flats and hollows。 A broad beach of the whitest sand lined the inner part of the bay； backed by a mass of cocoa…nut palms； among which the huts were concealed； and surmounted by a dense and varied growth of timber。 Canoes and boats of various sizes were drawn up on the beach and one or two idlers； with a few children and a dog； gazed at our prau as we came to an anchor。
When we went on shore the first thing that attracted us was a large and well…constructed shed； under which a long boat was being built； while others in various stages of completion were placed at intervals along the beach。 Our captain； who wanted two of moderate size for the trade among the islands at Aru； immediately began bargaining for them； and in a short tine had arranged the nuns number of brass guns； gongs； sarongs； handkerchiefs； axes； white plates； tobacco； and arrack； which he was to give for a hair which could be got ready in four days。 We then went to the village； which consisted only of three or four huts； situated immediately above the beach on an irregular rocky piece of ground overshadowed with cocoa…nuts； palms； bananas； and other fruit trees。 The houses were very rude； black； and half rotten； raised a few feet on posts with low sides of bamboo or planks； and high thatched roofs。 They had small doors and no windows； an opening under the projecting gables letting the smoke out and a little light in。 The floors were of strips of bamboo； thin； slippery； and elastic； and so weak that my feet were in danger of plunging through at every step。 Native boxes of pandanus…leaves and slabs of palm pith； very neatly constructed； mats of the same； jars and cooking pots of native pottery； and a few European plates and basins； were the whole furniture； and the interior was throughout dark and smoke…blackened； and dismal in the extreme。
Accompanied by Ali and Baderoon； I now attempted to make some explorations； and we were followed by a train of boys eager to see what we were going to do。 The most trodden path from the beach led us into a shady hollow； where the trees were of immense height and the undergrowth scanty。 From the summits of these trees came at intervals a deep booming sound； which at first puzzled us； but which we soon found to proceed from some large pigeons。 My boys shot at them； and after one or two misses； brought one down。 It was a magnificent bird twenty inches long； of a bluish white colour； with the back wings and tail intense metallic green； with golden； blue； and violet reflexions； the feet coral red； and the eyes golden yellow。 It is a rare species； which I have named Carpophaga concinna； and is found only in a few small islands； where； however； it abounds。 It is the same species which in the island of Banda is called the nutmeg…pigeon； from its habit of devouring the fruits； the seed or nutmeg being thrown up entire and uninjured。 Though these pigeons have a narrow beak； yet their jaws and throat are so extensible that they can swallow fruits of very large size。 I had before shot a species much smaller than this one； which had a number of hard globular palm…fruits in its crop； each more than an inch in diameter。
A little further the path divided into two； one leading along the beach； and across mangrove and sago swamps the other rising to cultivated grounds。 We therefore returned； and taking a fresh departure from the village； endeavoured to ascend the hills and penetrate into the interior。 The path； however； was a most trying one。 Where there was earth； it was a deposit of reddish clay overlying the rock； and was worn so smooth by the attrition of naked feet that my shoes could obtain no hold on the sloping surface。 A little farther we came to the bare rock； and this was worse； for it was so rugged and broken； and so honeycombed and weatherworn into sharp points and angles； that my boys； who had gone barefooted all their lives； could not stand it。 Their feet began to bleed； and I saw that if I did not want them completely lamed it would be wise to turn lack。 My own shoes； which were rather thin； were but a poor protection； and would soon have been cut to pieces； yet our little naked guides tripped along with the greatest ease and unconcern； and seemed much astonished at our effeminacy in not being able to take a walk which to them was a perfectly agreeable one。 During the rest of our stay in the island we were obliged to confine ourselves to the vicinity of the shore and the cultivated grounds； and those more level portions of the forest where a little soil had accumulated and the rock had been less exposed to atmospheric action。
The island of Ke （pronounced exactly as the letter K； but erroneously spelt in our maps Key or Ki） is long and narrow； running in a north and south direction； and consists almost entirely of rock and mountain。 It is everywhere covered with luxuriant forests； and in its bays and inlets the sand is of dazzling whiteness； resulting from the decomposition of the coralline limestone of which it is entirely composed。 In all the little swampy inlets and valleys sago trees aboun