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my own previous life； the remembrance of which had been more than
once unpleasant to me during my recent experiences。
Indeed； on one occasion I had even gone so far as to baptize him；
as well as I could； having ascertained that he had certainly not
been both christened and baptized； and gathering （from his telling
me that he had received the name William from the missionary） that
it was probably the first…mentioned rite to which he had been
subjected。 I thought it great carelessness on the part of the
missionary to have omitted the second； and certainly more
important； ceremony which I have always understood precedes
christening both in the case of infants and of adult converts； and
when I thought of the risks we were both incurring I determined
that there should be no further delay。 Fortunately it was not yet
twelve o'clock； so I baptized him at once from one of the pannikins
（the only vessels I had） reverently； and； I trust； efficiently。 I
then set myself to work to instruct him in the deeper mysteries of
our belief； and to make him； not only in name； but in heart a
Christian。
It is true that I might not have succeeded； for Chowbok was very
hard to teach。 Indeed； on the evening of the same day that I
baptized him he tried for the twentieth time to steal the brandy；
which made me rather unhappy as to whether I could have baptized
him rightly。 He had a prayer…bookmore than twenty years old
which had been given him by the missionaries； but the only thing in
it which had taken any living hold upon him was the title of
Adelaide the Queen Dowager； which he would repeat whenever strongly
moved or touched； and which did really seem to have some deep
spiritual significance to him； though he could never completely
separate her individuality from that of Mary Magdalene； whose name
had also fascinated him； though in a less degree。
He was indeed stony ground； but by digging about him I might have
at any rate deprived him of all faith in the religion of his tribe；
which would have been half way towards making him a sincere
Christian； and now all this was cut off from me； and I could
neither be of further spiritual assistance to him nor he of bodily
profit to myself： besides； any company was better than being quite
alone。
I got very melancholy as these reflections crossed me； but when I
had boiled the ducks and eaten them I was much better。 I had a
little tea left and about a pound of tobacco； which should last me
for another fortnight with moderate smoking。 I had also eight ship
biscuits； and； most precious of all； about six ounces of brandy；
which I presently reduced to four； for the night was cold。
I rose with early dawn； and in an hour I was on my way； feeling
strange； not to say weak； from the burden of solitude； but full of
hope when I considered how many dangers I had overcome； and that
this day should see me at the summit of the dividing range。
After a slow but steady climb of between three and four hours；
during which I met with no serious hindrance； I found myself upon a
tableland； and close to a glacier which I recognised as marking the
summit of the pass。 Above it towered a succession of rugged
precipices and snowy mountain sides。 The solitude was greater than
I could bear； the mountain upon my master's sheep…run was a crowded
thoroughfare in comparison with this sombre sullen place。 The air；
moreover； was dark and heavy； which made the loneliness even more
oppressive。 There was an inky gloom over all that was not covered
with snow and ice。 Grass there was none。
Each moment I felt increasing upon me that dreadful doubt as to my
own identityas to the continuity of my past and present
existencewhich is the first sign of that distraction which comes
on those who have lost themselves in the bush。 I had fought
against this feeling hitherto； and had conquered it； but the
intense silence and gloom of this rocky wilderness were too much
for me； and I felt that my power of collecting myself was beginning
to be impaired。
I rested for a little while； and then advanced over very rough
ground； until I reached the lower end of the glacier。 Then I saw
another glacier； descending from the eastern side into a small
lake。 I passed along the western side of the lake； where the
ground was easier； and when I had got about half way I expected
that I should see the plains which I had already seen from the
opposite mountains； but it was not to be so； for the clouds rolled
up to the very summit of the pass； though they did not overlip it
on to the side from which I had come。 I therefore soon found
myself enshrouded by a cold thin vapour； which prevented my seeing
more than a very few yards in front of me。 Then I came upon a
large patch of old snow； in which I could distinctly trace the
half…melted tracks of goatsand in one place； as it seemed to me；
there had been a dog following them。 Had I lighted upon a land of
shepherds？ The ground； where not covered with snow； was so poor
and stony； and there was so little herbage； that I could see no
sign of a path or regular sheep…track。 But I could not help
feeling rather uneasy as I wondered what sort of a reception I
might meet with if I were to come suddenly upon inhabitants。 I was
thinking of this； and proceeding cautiously through the mist； when
I began to fancy that I saw some objects darker than the cloud
looming in front of me。 A few steps brought me nearer； and a
shudder of unutterable horror ran through me when I saw a circle of
gigantic forms； many times higher than myself； upstanding grim and
grey through the veil of cloud before me。
I suppose I must have fainted； for I found myself some time
afterwards sitting upon the ground； sick and deadly cold。 There
were the figures； quite still and silent； seen vaguely through the
thick gloom； but in human shape indisputably。
A sudden thought occurred to me； which would have doubtless struck
me at once had I not been prepossessed with forebodings at the time
that I first saw the figures； and had not the cloud concealed them
from meI mean that they were not living beings； but statues。 I
determined that I would count fifty slowly； and was sure that the
objects were not alive if during that time I could detect no sign
of motion。
How thankful was I when I came to the end of my fifty and there had
been no movement！
I counted a second timebut again all was still。
I then advanced timidly forward； and in another moment I saw that
my surmise was correct。 I had come upon a sort of Stonehenge of
rude and barbaric figures； seated as Chowbok had sat when I
questioned him in the wool…shed； and with the same superhumanly
malevolent expression upon their faces。 They had been all seated；
but two had fallen。 They were barbarousneither Egyptian； nor
Assyrian； nor Japanesedifferent from any of these； and yet akin
to all。 They were six or seven times larger than life； of great
antiquity； worn and lichen grown。 They were ten in number。 There
was snow upon their heads and wherever snow could lodge。 Each
statue had been built of four or five enormous blocks； but how
these had been raised and put together is known to those alone who
raised them。 Each was terrible after a different kind。 One was
raging furiously； as in pain and great despair； another was lean
and cadaverous with famine； another cruel and idiotic； but with the
silliest simper that can be conceivedthis one had fallen； and
looked exquisitely ludicrous in his fallthe mouths of all were
more or less open； and as I looked at them from behind； I saw that
their heads had been hollowed。
I was sick and shivering with cold。 Solitude had unmanned me
already； and I was utterly unfit to have come upon such an assembly
of fiends in such a dreadful wilderness and without preparation。 I
would have given everything I had in the world to have been back at
my master's station； but that was not to be thought of： my head
was failing； and I felt sure that I could never get back alive。
Then came a gust of howling wind； accompanied with a moan from one
of the statues above me。 I clasped my hands in fear。 I felt like
a rat caught in a trap； as though I wo