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All this voyage I have been busy over my TRAVELS； which； given a
very high temperature and the saloon of a steamer usually going
before the wind； and with the cabins in front of the engines； has
come very near to prostrating me altogether。 You will therefore
understand that there are no more poems。 I wonder whether there
are already enough； and whether you think that such a volume would
be worth the publishing？ I shall hope to find in Sydney some
expression of your opinion on this point。 Living as I do among …
not the most cultured of mankind （'splendidly educated and perfect
gentlemen when sober'） … I attach a growing importance to friendly
criticisms from yourself。
I believe that this is the most of our business。 As for my health；
I got over my cold in a fine style； but have not been very well of
late。 To my unaffected annoyance； the blood…spitting has started
again。 I find the heat of a steamer decidedly wearing and trying
in these latitudes； and I am inclined to think the superior
expedition rather dearly paid for。 Still； the fact that one does
not even remark the coming of a squall； nor feel relief on its
departure； is a mercy not to be acknowledged without gratitude。
The rest of the family seem to be doing fairly well； both seem less
run down than they were on the EQUATOR； and Mrs。 Stevenson very
much less so。 We have now been three months away； have visited
about thirty…five islands； many of which were novel to us； and some
extremely entertaining； some also were old acquaintances； and
pleasant to revisit。 In the meantime； we have really a capital
time aboard ship； in the most pleasant and interesting society； and
with （considering the length and nature of the voyage） an excellent
table。 Please remember us all to Mr。 Scribner； the young chieftain
of the house； and the lady； whose health I trust is better。 To
Mrs。 Burlingame we all desire to be remembered； and I hope you will
give our news to Low； St。 Gaudens； Faxon； and others of the
faithful in the city。 I shall probably return to Samoa direct；
having given up all idea of returning to civilisation in the
meanwhile。 There； on my ancestral acres； which I purchased six
months ago from a blind Scots blacksmith； you will please address
me until further notice。 The name of the ancestral acres is going
to be Vailima； but as at the present moment nobody else knows the
name； except myself and the co…patentees； it will be safer； if less
ambitious； to address R。 L。 S。； Apia； Samoa。 The ancestral acres
run to upwards of three hundred； they enjoy the ministrations of
five streams； whence the name。 They are all at the present moment
under a trackless covering of magnificent forest； which would be
worth a great deal if it grew beside a railway terminus。 To me； as
it stands； it represents a handsome deficit。 Obliging natives from
the Cannibal Islands are now cutting it down at my expense。 You
would be able to run your magazine to much greater advantage if the
terms of authors were on the same scale with those of my cannibals。
We have also a house about the size of a manufacturer's lodge。
'Tis but the egg of the future palace； over the details of which on
paper Mrs。 Stevenson and I have already shed real tears； what it
will be when it comes to paying for it； I leave you to imagine。
But if it can only be built as now intended； it will be with
genuine satisfaction and a growunded pride that I shall welcome you
at the steps of my Old Colonial Home； when you land from the
steamer on a long…merited holiday。 I speak much at my ease； yet I
do not know； I may be now an outlaw； a bankrupt； the abhorred of
all good men。 I do not know； you probably do。 Has Hyde turned
upon me？ Have I fallen； like Danvers Carew？
It is suggested to me that you might like to know what will be my
future society。 Three consuls； all at logger…heads with one
another； or at the best in a clique of two against one； three
different sects of missionaries； not upon the best of terms； and
the Catholics and Protestants in a condition of unhealable ill…
feeling as to whether a wooden drum ought or ought not to be beaten
to announce the time of school。 The native population； very
genteel； very songful； very agreeable； very good…looking；
chronically spoiling for a fight （a circumstance not to be entirely
neglected in the design of the palace）。 As for the white
population of （technically； 'The Beach'）； I don't suppose it is
possible for any person not thoroughly conversant with the South
Seas to form the smallest conception of such a society； with its
grog…shops； its apparently unemployed hangers…on； its merchants of
all degrees of respectability and the reverse。 The paper； of which
I must really send you a copy … if yours were really a live
magazine； you would have an exchange with the editor： I assure
you； it has of late contained a great deal of matter about one of
your contributors … rejoices in the name of SAMOA TIMES AND SOUTH
SEA ADVERTISER。 The advertisements in the ADVERTISER are
permanent； being simply subsidies for its existence。 A dashing
warfare of newspaper correspondence goes on between the various
residents； who are rather fond of recurring to one another's
antecedents。 But when all is said； there are a lot of very nice；
pleasant people； and I don't know that Apia is very much worse than
half a hundred towns that I could name。
ROBERT LOUIS STEVENSON。
Letter： TO CHARLES BAXTER
HOTEL SEBASTOPOL； NOUMEA； AUGUST 1890。
MY DEAR CHARLES； … I have stayed here a week while Lloyd and my
wife continue to voyage in the JANET NICOLL； this I did； partly to
see the convict system； partly to shorten my stay in the extreme
cold … hear me with my extreme！ MOI QUI SUIS ORIGINAIRE D'EDINBOURG
… of Sydney at this season。 I am feeling very seedy； utterly
fatigued； and overborne with sleep。 I have a fine old gentleman of
a doctor； who attends and cheers and entertains； if he does not
cure me； but even with his ministrations I am almost incapable of
the exertion sufficient for this letter； and I am really； as I
write； falling down with sleep。 What is necessary to say； I must
try to say shortly。 Lloyd goes to clear out our establishments：
pray keep him in funds； if I have any； if I have not； pray try to
raise them。 Here is the idea： to install ourselves； at the risk
of bankruptcy； in Samoa。 It is not the least likely it will pay
（although it may）； but it is almost certain it will support life；
with very few external expenses。 If I die； it will be an endowment
for the survivors； at least for my wife and Lloyd； and my mother；
who might prefer to go home； has her own。 Hence I believe I shall
do well to hurry my installation。 The letters are already in part
done； in part done is a novel for Scribner； in the course of the
next twelve months I should receive a considerable amount of money。
I am aware I had intended to pay back to my capital some of this。
I am now of opinion I should act foolishly。 Better to build the
house and have a roof and farm of my own； and thereafter； with a
livelihood assured； save and repay 。 。 。 There is my livelihood；
all but books and wine； ready in a nutshell； and it ought to be
more easy to save and to repay afterwards。 Excellent； say you； but
will you save and will you repay？ I do not know； said the Bell of
Old Bow。 。 。 。 It seems clear to me。 。 。 。 The deuce of the affair
is that I do not know when I shall see you and Colvin。 I guess you
will have to come and see me： many a time already we have arranged
the details of your visit in the yet unbuilt house on the mountain。
I shall be able to get decent wine from Noumea。 We shall be able
to give you a decent welcome； and talk of old days。 APROPOS of old
days； do you remember still the phrase we heard in Wa