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a Tearer； Mr。 Burlingame： no one at least has had such stuff。
We are now engaged in the hell of a dead calm； the heat is cruel …
it is the only time when I suffer from heat： I have nothing on but
a pair of serge trousers； and a singlet without sleeves of Oxford
gauze … O； yes； and a red sash about my waist； and yet as I sit
here in the cabin； sweat streams from me。 The rest are on deck
under a bit of awning； we are not much above a hundred miles from
port； and we might as well be in Kamschatka。 However； I should be
honest： this is the first calm I have endured without the added
bane of a heavy swell； and the intoxicated blue…bottle wallowings
and knockings of the helpless ship。
I wonder how you liked the end of THE MASTER； that was the hardest
job I ever had to do； did I do it？
My wife begs to be remembered to yourself and Mrs。 Burlingame。
Remember all of us to all friends； particularly Low； in case I
don't get a word through for him。 … I am； yours very sincerely；
ROBERT LOUIS STEVENSON。
Letter： TO CHARLES BAXTER
SAMOA； ＇DECEMBER 1889＇。
MY DEAR BAXTER； … 。 。 。 I cannot return until I have seen either
Tonga or Fiji or both： and I must not leave here till I have
finished my collections on the war … a very interesting bit of
history； the truth often very hard to come at； and the search （for
me） much complicated by the German tongue； from the use of which I
have desisted （I suppose） these fifteen years。 The last two days I
have been mugging with a dictionary from five to six hours a day；
besides this； I have to call upon； keep sweet； and judiciously
interview all sorts of persons … English； American； German； and
Samoan。 It makes a hard life； above all； as after every interview
I have to come and get my notes straight on the nail。 I believe I
should have got my facts before the end of January； when I shall
make our Tonga or Fiji。 I am down right in the hurricane season；
but they had so bad a one last year； I don't imagine there will be
much of an edition this。 Say that I get to Sydney some time in
April； and I shall have done well； and be in a position to write a
very singular and interesting book； or rather two； for I shall
begin； I think； with a separate opuscule on the Samoan Trouble；
about as long as KIDNAPPED； not very interesting； but valuable …
and a thing proper to be done。 And then； hey！ for the big South
Sea Book： a devil of a big one； and full of the finest sport。
This morning as I was going along to my breakfast a little before
seven； reading a number of BLACKWOOD'S MAGAZINE； I was startled by
a soft TALOFA； ALII （note for my mother： they are quite courteous
here in the European style； quite unlike Tahiti）； right in my ear：
it was Mataafa coming from early mass in his white coat and white
linen kilt； with three fellows behind him。 Mataafa is the nearest
thing to a hero in my history； and really a fine fellow； plenty
sense； and the most dignified； quiet； gentle manners。 Talking of
BLACKWOOD … a file of which I was lucky enough to find here in the
lawyer's … Mrs。 Oliphant seems in a staggering state： from the
WRONG BOX to THE MASTER I scarce recognise either my critic or
myself。 I gather that THE MASTER should do well； and at least that
notice is agreeable reading。 I expect to be home in June： you
will have gathered that I am pretty well。 In addition to my
labours； I suppose I walk five or six miles a day； and almost every
day I ride up and see Fanny and Lloyd； who are in a house in the
bush with Ah Fu。 I live in Apia for history's sake with Moors； an
American trader。 Day before yesterday I was arrested and fined for
riding fast in the street； which made my blood bitter； as the wife
of the manager of the German Firm has twice almost ridden me down；
and there seems none to say her nay。 The Germans have behaved
pretty badly here； but not in all ways so ill as you may have
gathered： they were doubtless much provoked； and if the insane
Knappe had not appeared upon the scene； might have got out of the
muddle with dignity。 I write along without rhyme or reason； as
things occur to me。
I hope from my outcries about printing you do not think I want you
to keep my news or letters in a Blue Beard closet。 I like all
friends to hear of me； they all should if I had ninety hours in the
day； and strength for all of them； but you must have gathered how
hard worked I am； and you will understand I go to bed a pretty
tired man。
29TH DECEMBER； ＇1889＇。
To…morrow （Monday； I won't swear to my day of the month； this is
the Sunday between Christmas and New Year） I go up the coast with
Mr。 Clarke； one of the London Society missionaries； in a boat to
examine schools； see Tamasese； etc。 Lloyd comes to photograph。
Pray Heaven we have good weather； this is the rainy season； we
shall be gone four or five days； and if the rain keep off； I shall
be glad of the change； if it rain； it will be beastly。 This
explains still further how hard pressed I am； as the mail will be
gone ere I return； and I have thus lost the days I meant to write
in。 I have a boy； Henry； who interprets and copies for me； and is
a great nuisance。 He said he wished to come to me in order to
learn 'long expressions。' Henry goes up along with us； and as I am
not fond of him； he may before the trip is over hear some 'strong
expressions。' I am writing this on the back balcony at Moors'；
palms and a hill like the hill of Kinnoull looking in at me； myself
lying on the floor； and （like the parties in Handel's song） 'clad
in robes of virgin white'； the ink is dreadful； the heat delicious；
a fine going breeze in the palms； and from the other side of the
house the sudden angry splash and roar of the Pacific on the reef；
where the warships are still piled from last year's hurricane； some
under water； one high and dry upon her side； the strangest figure
of a ship was ever witnessed； the narrow bay there is full of
ships； the men…of…war covered with sail after the rains； and
（especially the German ship； which is fearfully and awfully top
heavy） rolling almost yards in； in what appears to be calm water。
Samoa； Apia at least； is far less beautiful than the Marquesas or
Tahiti： a more gentle scene； gentler acclivities； a tamer face of
nature； and this much aided； for the wanderer； by the great German
plantations with their countless regular avenues of palms。 The
island has beautiful rivers； of about the bigness of our waters in
the Lothians； with pleasant pools and waterfalls and overhanging
verdure； and often a great volume of sound； so that once I thought
I was passing near a mill； and it was only the voice of the river。
I am not specially attracted by the people； but they are courteous；
the women very attractive； and dress lovely； the men purposelike；
well set up； tall； lean； and dignified。 As I write the breeze is
brisking up； doors are beginning to slam： and shutters； a strong
draught sweeps round the balcony； it looks doubtful for to…morrow。
Here I shut up。 … Ever your affectionate；
R。 L。 STEVENSON。
Letter： TO DR。 SCOTT
APIA； SAMOA； JANUARY 20TH； 1890。
MY DEAR SCOTT； … Shameful indeed that you should not have heard of
me before！ I have now been some twenty months in the South Seas；
and am （up to date） a person whom you would scarce know。 I think
nothing of long walks and rides： I was four hours and a half gone
the other day； partly riding； partly climbing up a steep ravine。 I
have stood a six months' voyage on a copra schooner with about
three months ashore on coral atolls； which means （except for
cocoanuts to drink） no change whatever from ship's food。 My wife
suffered badly … it was too rough a business altogether … Lloyd
suffered … and； in short； I was the only one of the party who 'kep