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had to sink a lot of money in the cruise； and if I didn't get
health； how was I to get it back？ I have got health to a wonderful
extent； and as I have the most interesting matter for my book； bar
accidents； I ought to get all I have laid out and a profit。 But；
second （what I own I never considered till too late）； there was the
danger of collisions； of damages and heavy repairs； of disablement；
towing； and salvage； indeed； the cruise might have turned round and
cost me double。 Nor will this danger be quite over till I hear the
yacht is in San Francisco； for though I have shaken the dust of her
deck from my feet； I fear （as a point of law） she is still mine
till she gets there。
From my point of view； up to now the cruise has been a wonderful
success。 I never knew the world was so amusing。 On the last
voyage we had grown so used to sea…life that no one wearied； though
it lasted a full month； except Fanny； who is always ill。 All the
time our visits to the islands have been more like dreams than
realities： the people； the life； the beachcombers； the old stories
and songs I have picked up； so interesting； the climate； the
scenery； and （in some places） the women； so beautiful。 The women
are handsomest in Tahiti； the men in the Marquesas； both as fine
types as can be imagined。 Lloyd reminds me； I have not told you
one characteristic incident of the cruise from a semi…naval point
of view。 One night we were going ashore in Anaho Bay； the most
awful noise on deck； the breakers distinctly audible in the cabin；
and there I had to sit below； entertaining in my best style a
negroid native chieftain； much the worse for rum！ You can imagine
the evening's pleasure。
This naval report on cruising in the South Seas would be incomplete
without one other trait。 On our voyage up here I came one day into
the dining…room； the hatch in the floor was open； the ship's boy
was below with a baler； and two of the hands were carrying buckets
as for a fire； this meant that the pumps had ceased working。
One stirring day was that in which we sighted Hawaii。 It blew
fair； but very strong； we carried jib； foresail； and mainsail； all
single…reefed； and she carried her lee rail under water and flew。
The swell； the heaviest I have ever been out in … I tried in vain
to estimate the height； AT LEAST fifteen feet … came tearing after
us about a point and a half off the wind。 We had the best hand …
old Louis … at the wheel； and； really； he did nobly； and had noble
luck； for it never caught us once。 At times it seemed we must have
it； Louis would look over his shoulder with the queerest look and
dive down his neck into his shoulders； and then it missed us
somehow； and only sprays came over our quarter； turning the little
outside lane of deck into a mill race as deep as to the cockpit
coamings。 I never remember anything more delightful and exciting。
Pretty soon after we were lying absolutely becalmed under the lee
of Hawaii； of which we had been warned； and the captain never
confessed he had done it on purpose； but when accused； he smiled。
Really； I suppose he did quite right； for we stood committed to a
dangerous race； and to bring her to the wind would have been rather
a heart…sickening manoeuvre。
R。 L。 S。
Letter： TO MARCEL SCHWOB
HONOLULU； SANDWICH ISLANDS； FEBRUARY 8TH； 1889。
DEAR SIR； … I thank you … from the midst of such a flurry as you
can imagine； with seven months' accumulated correspondence on my
table … for your two friendly and clever letters。 Pray write me
again。 I shall be home in May or June； and not improbably shall
come to Paris in the summer。 Then we can talk； or in the interval
I may be able to write； which is to…day out of the question。 Pray
take a word from a man of crushing occupations； and count it as a
volume。 Your little CONTE is delightful。 Ah yes； you are right； I
love the eighteenth century； and so do you； and have not listened
to its voice in vain。 … The Hunted One；
ROBERT LOUIS STEVENSON。
Letter： TO CHARLES BAXTER
HONOLULU； 8TH MARCH 1889。
MY DEAR CHARLES； … At last I have the accounts： the Doer has done
excellently； and in the words of …； 'I reciprocate every step of
your behaviour。' 。 。 I send a letter for Bob in your care； as I
don't know his Liverpool address； by which （for he is to show you
part of it） you will see we have got out of this adventure … or
hope to have … with wonderful fortune。 I have the retrospective
horrors on me when I think of the liabilities I incurred； but；
thank God； I think I'm in port again； and I have found one climate
in which I can enjoy life。 Even Honolulu is too cold for me； but
the south isles were a heaven upon earth to a puir； catarrhal party
like Johns'one。 We think； as Tahiti is too complete a banishment；
to try Madeira。 It's only a week from England； good
communications； and I suspect in climate and scenery not unlike our
dear islands； in people； alas！ there can be no comparison。 But
friends could go； and I could come in summer； so I should not be
quite cut off。
Lloyd and I have finished a story； THE WRONG BOX。 If it is not
funny； I am sure I do not know what is。 I have split over writing
it。 Since I have been here； I have been toiling like a galley
slave： three numbers of THE MASTER to rewrite； five chapters of
the WRONG BOX to write and rewrite； and about five hundred lines of
a narrative poem to write； rewrite； and re…rewrite。 Now I have THE
MASTER waiting me for its continuation； two numbers more； when
that's done； I shall breathe。 This spasm of activity has been
chequered with champagne parties： Happy and Glorious； Hawaii Ponoi
paua： kou moi … （Native Hawaiians； dote upon your monarch！）
Hawaiian God save the King。 （In addition to my other labours； I am
learning the language with a native moonshee。） Kalakaua is a
terrible companion； a bottle of fizz is like a glass of sherry to
him； he thinks nothing of five or six in an afternoon as a whet for
dinner。 You should see a photograph of our party after an
afternoon with H。 H。 M。： my！ what a crew！ … Yours ever
affectionately；
ROBERT LOUIS STEVENSON。
Letter： TO HENRY JAMES
HONOLULU ＇MARCH 1889＇。
MY DEAR JAMES； … Yes … I own up … I am untrue to friendship and
（what is less； but still considerable） to civilisation。 I am not
coming home for another year。 There it is； cold and bald； and now
you won't believe in me at all； and serve me right （says you） and
the devil take me。 But look here； and judge me tenderly。 I have
had more fun and pleasure of my life these past months than ever
before； and more health than any time in ten long years。 And even
here in Honolulu I have withered in the cold； and this precious
deep is filled with islands； which we may still visit； and though
the sea is a deathful place； I like to be there； and like squalls
（when they are over）； and to draw near to a new island； I cannot
say how much I like。 In short； I take another year of this sort of
life； and mean to try to work down among the poisoned arrows； and
mean （if it may be） to come back again when the thing is through；
and converse with Henry James as heretofore； and in the meanwhile
issue directions to H。 J。 to write to me once more。 Let him
address here at Honolulu； for my views are vague； and if it is sent
here it will follow and find me； if I am to be found； and if I am
not to be found the man James will have done his duty； and we shall
be at the bottom of the sea； where no post…office clerk can be
expected to discover us； or languishing on a coral island； the
philosophic drudges of some barbarian potentate： perchance； of an
American Missionary。 My wife has just sent to Mrs。 Sitwell a
translation （TANT BIEN QUE MAL） of a letter I have had