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rude and simple； consisting of but few inflections。 These he chants
forth with a loud voice； and long； drawling cadence； seated sideways
on his mule； who seems to listen with infinite gravity； and to keep
time； with his paces； to the tune。 The couplets thus chanted； are
often old traditional romances about the Moors； or some legend of a
saint； or some love…ditty； or； what is still more frequent； some
ballad about a bold contrabandista； or hardy bandolero； for the
smuggler and the robber are poetical heroes among the common people of
Spain。 Often； the song of the muleteer is composed at the instant； and
relates to some local scene； or some incident of the journey。 This
talent of singing and improvising is frequent in Spain； and is said to
have been inherited from the Moors。 There is something wildly pleasing
in listening to these ditties among the rude and lonely scenes they
illustrate； accompanied； as they are； by the occasional jingle of
the mule…bell。
It has a most picturesque effect also to meet a train of muleteers
in some mountain…pass。 First you hear the bells of the leading
mules； breaking with their simple melody the stillness of the airy
height； or； perhaps； the voice of the muleteer admonishing some
tardy or wandering animal； or chanting； at the full stretch of his
lungs； some traditionary ballad。 At length you see the mules slowly
winding along the cragged defile； sometimes descending precipitous
cliffs； so as to present themselves in full relief against the sky；
sometimes toiling up the deep arid chasms below you。 As they approach；
you descry their gay decorations of worsted stuffs； tassels； and
saddle…cloths； while； as they pass by； the ever…ready trabuco； slung
behind the packs and saddles； gives a hint of the insecurity of the
road。
The ancient kingdom of Granada； into which we* were about to
penetrate； is one of the most mountainous regions of Spain。 Vast
sierras； or chains of mountains； destitute of shrub or tree； and
mottled with variegated marbles and granites； elevate their sunburnt
summits against a deep…blue sky； yet in their rugged bosoms lie
ingulfed verdant and fertile valleys； where the desert and the
garden strive for mastery； and the very rock is； as it were； compelled
to yield the fig； the orange； and the citron； and to blossom with
the myrtle and the rose。
* Note to the Revised Edition。… The Author feels at liberty to
mention that his travelling companion was the Prince Dolgorouki； at
present Russian minister at the Court of Persia。
In the wild passes of these mountains the sight of walled towns
and villages； built like eagles' nests among the cliffs； and
surrounded by Moorish battlements； or of ruined watchtowers perched on
lofty peaks； carries the mind back to the chivalric days of
Christian and Moslem warfare； and to the romantic struggle for the
conquest of Granada。 In traversing these lofty sierras the traveller
is often obliged to alight； and lead his horse up and down the steep
and jagged ascents and descents； resembling the broken steps of a
staircase。
Sometimes the road winds along dizzy precipices； without parapet
to guard him from the gulfs below； and then will plunge down steep；
and dark； and dangerous declivities。 Sometimes it struggles through
rugged barrancos； or ravines； worn by winter torrents； the obscure
path of the contrabandista； while； ever and anon； the ominous cross；
the monument of robbery and murder； erected on a mound of stones at
some lonely part of the road； admonishes the traveller that he is
among the haunts of banditti； perhaps at that very moment under the
eye of some lurking bandolero。 Sometimes； in winding through the
narrow valleys； he is startled by a hoarse bellowing； and beholds
above him on some green fold of the mountain a herd of fierce
Andalusian bulls； destined for the combat of the arena。 I have felt；
if I may so express it； an agreeable horror in thus contemplating；
near at hand； these terrific animals； clothed with tremendous
strength； and ranging their native pastures in untamed wildness；
strangers almost to the face of man： they know no one but the solitary
herdsman who attends upon them； and even he at times dares not venture
to approach them。 The low bellowing of these bulls； and their menacing
aspect as they look down from their rocky height； give additional
wildness to the savage scenery。
I have been betrayed unconsciously into a longer disquisition than I
intended on the general features of Spanish travelling； but there is a
romance about all the recollections of the Peninsula dear to the
imagination。
As our proposed route to Granada lay through mountainous regions；
where the roads are little better than mule paths； and said to be
frequently beset by robbers； we took due travelling precautions。
Forwarding the most valuable part of our luggage a day or two in
advance by the arrieros； we retained merely clothing and necessaries
for the journey and money for the expenses of the road； with a
little surplus of hard dollars by way of robber purse； to satisfy
the gentlemen of the road should we be assailed。 Unlucky is the too
wary traveller who； having grudged this precaution； falls into their
clutches empty handed： they are apt to give him a sound ribroasting
for cheating them out of their dues。 〃Caballeros like them cannot
afford to scour the roads and risk the gallows for nothing。〃
A couple of stout steeds were provided for our own mounting； and a
third for our scanty luggage and the conveyance of a sturdy Biscayan
lad； about twenty years of age； who was to be our guide； our groom；
our valet； and at all times our guard。 For the latter office he was
provided with a formidable trabuco or carbine； with which he
promised to defend us against rateros or solitary footpads； but as
to powerful bands； like that of the 〃sons of Ecija；〃 he confessed they
were quite beyond his prowess。 He made much vainglorious boast about
his weapon at the outset of the journey； though； to the discredit of
his generalship； it was suffered to hang unloaded behind his saddle。
According to our stipulations； the man from whom we hired the horses
was to be at the expense of their feed and stabling on the journey； as
well as of the maintenance of our Biscayan squire； who of course was
provided with funds for the purpose； we took care； however； to give
the latter a private hint； that； though we made a close bargain with
his master； it was all in his favor； as； if he proved a good man and
true； both he and the horses should live at our cost； and the money
provided for their maintenance remain in his pocket。 This unexpected
largess； with the occasional present of a cigar； won his heart
completely。 He was； in truth； a faithful； cheery； kind…hearted
creature； as full of saws and proverbs as that miracle of squires； the
renowned Sancho himself； whose name； by the by； we bestowed upon
him； and like a true Spaniard； though treated by us with companionable
familiarity； he never for a moment； in his utmost hilarity；
overstepped the bounds of respectful decorum。
Such were our minor preparations for the journey； but above all we
laid in an ample stock of good humor； and a genuine disposition to
be pleased； determining to travel in true contrabandista style； taking
things as we found them； rough or smooth； and mingling with all
classes and conditions in a kind of vagabond companionship。 It is
the true way to travel in Spain。 With such disposition and
determination； what a country is it for a traveller； where the most
miserable inn is as full of adventure as an enchanted castle； and
every meal is in itself an achievement！ Let others repine at the
lack of turnpike roads and sumptuous hotels； and all the elaborate
comforts of a country cultivated and civilized into tameness and
commonplace； but give me the rude mountain scramble； the roving；
haphazard； wayfaring； the half wild； yet frank and hospitable manners；
wh