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proud anxiety。 I tasted all。 I tasted every variety and
shade of Schramberger； red and white Schramberger； Burgundy
Schramberger； Schramberger Hock； Schramberger Golden
Chasselas； the latter with a notable bouquet； and I fear to
think how many more。 Much of it goes to London … most； I
think； and Mr。 Schram has a great notion of the English
taste。
In this wild spot； I did not feel the sacredness of ancient
cultivation。 It was still raw； it was no Marathon； and no
Johannisberg； yet the stirring sunlight； and the growing
vines； and the vats and bottles in the cavern； made a
pleasant music for the mind。 Here； also； earth's cream was
being skimmed and garnered； and the London customers can
taste； such as it is； the tang of the earth in this green
valley。 So local； so quintessential is a wine； that it seems
the very birds in the verandah might communicate a flavour；
and that romantic cellar influence the bottle next to be
uncorked in Pimlico； and the smile of jolly Mr。 Schram might
mantle in the glass。
But these are but experiments。 All things in this new land
are moving farther on： the wine…vats and the miner's
blasting tools but picket for a night； like Bedouin
pavillions； and to…morrow； to fresh woods！ This stir of
change and these perpetual echoes of the moving footfall；
haunt the land。 Men move eternally； still chasing Fortune；
and； fortune found； still wander。 As we drove back to
Calistoga； the road lay empty of mere passengers； but its
green side was dotted with the camps of travelling families：
one cumbered with a great waggonful of household stuff；
settlers going to occupy a ranche they had taken up in
Mendocino； or perhaps Tehama County； another； a party in dust
coats； men and women； whom we found camped in a grove on the
roadside； all on pleasure bent； with a Chinaman to cook for
them； and who waved their hands to us as we drove by。
CHAPTER IV … THE SCOT ABROAD
A FEW pages back； I wrote that a man belonged； in these days；
to a variety of countries； but the old land is still the true
love； the others are but pleasant infidelities。 Scotland is
indefinable； it has no unity except upon the map。 Two
languages； many dialects； innumerable forms of piety； and
countless local patriotisms and prejudices； part us among
ourselves more widely than the extreme east and west of that
great continent of America。 When I am at home； I feel a man
from Glasgow to be something like a rival； a man from Barra
to be more than half a foreigner。 Yet let us meet in some
far country； and； whether we hail from the braes of Manor or
the braes of Mar； some ready…made affection joins us on the
instant。 It is not race。 Look at us。 One is Norse； one
Celtic； and another Saxon。 It is not community of tongue。
We have it not among ourselves； and we have it almost to
perfection； with English； or Irish； or American。 It is no
tie of faith； for we detest each other's errors。 And yet
somewhere； deep down in the heart of each one of us；
something yearns for the old land； and the old kindly people。
Of all mysteries of the human heart； this is perhaps the most
inscrutable。 There is no special loveliness in that gray
country； with its rainy； sea…beat archipelago； its fields of
dark mountains； its unsightly places； black with coal； its
treeless； sour； unfriendly looking corn…lands； its quaint；
gray； castled city； where the bells clash of a Sunday； and
the wind squalls； and the salt showers fly and beat。 I do
not even know if I desire to live there； but let me hear； in
some far land； a kindred voice sing out； 〃Oh； why left I my
hame？〃 and it seems at once as if no beauty under the kind
heavens； and no society of the wise and good； can repay me
for my absence from my country。 And though I think I would
rather die elsewhere； yet in my heart of hearts I long to be
buried among good Scots clods。 I will say it fairly； it
grows on me with every year： there are no stars so lovely as
Edinburgh street…lamps。 When I forget thee； auld Reekie； may
my right hand forget its cunning！
The happiest lot on earth is to be born a Scotchman。 You
must pay for it in many ways； as for all other advantages on
earth。 You have to learn the paraphrases and the shorter
catechism； you generally take to drink； your youth； as far as
I can find out； is a time of louder war against society； of
more outcry and tears and turmoil； than if you had been born；
for instance； in England。 But somehow life is warmer and
closer； the hearth burns more redly； the lights of home shine
softer on the rainy street； the very names； endeared in verse
and music； cling nearer round our hearts。 An Englishman may
meet an Englishman to…morrow； upon Chimborazo； and neither of
them care； but when the Scotch wine…grower told me of Mons
Meg； it was like magic。
〃From the dim shieling on the misty island
Mountains divide us； and a world of seas；
Yet still our hearts are true； our hearts are Highland；
And we； in dreams； behold the Hebrides。〃
And； Highland and Lowland； all our hearts are Scotch。
Only a few days after I had seen M'Eckron； a message reached
me in my cottage。 It was a Scotchman who had come down a
long way from the hills to market。 He had heard there was a
countryman in Calistoga； and came round to the hotel to see
him。 We said a few words to each other； we had not much to
say … should never have seen each other had we stayed at
home； separated alike in space and in society； and then we
shook hands； and he went his way again to his ranche among
the hills； and that was all。
Another Scotchman there was； a resident； who for the more
love of the common country； douce； serious； religious man；
drove me all about the valley； and took as much interest in
me as if I had been his son： more； perhaps； for the son has
faults too keenly felt； while the abstract countryman is
perfect … like a whiff of peats。
And there was yet another。 Upon him I came suddenly； as he
was calmly entering my cottage； his mind quite evidently bent
on plunder： a man of about fifty； filthy； ragged； roguish；
with a chimney…pot hat and a tail coat； and a pursing of his
mouth that might have been envied by an elder of the kirk。
He had just such a face as I have seen a dozen times behind
the plate。
〃Hullo； sir！〃 I cried。 〃Where are you going？〃
He turned round without a quiver。
〃You're a Scotchman； sir？〃 he said gravely。 〃So am I； I come
from Aberdeen。 This is my card；〃 presenting me with a piece
of pasteboard which he had raked out of some gutter in the
period of the rains。 〃I was just examining this palm；〃 he
continued； indicating the misbegotten plant before our door；
〃which is the largest spAcimen I have yet observed in
Califoarnia。〃
There were four or five larger within sight。 But where was
the use of argument？ He produced a tape…line； made me help
him to measure the tree at the level of the ground； and
entered the figures in a large and filthy pocket…book； all
with the gravity of Solomon。 He then thanked me profusely；
remarking that such little services were due between
countrymen； shook hands with me； 〃for add lang syne；〃 as he
said； and took himself solemnly away； radiating dirt and
humbug as he went。
A month or two after this encounter of mine； there came a
Scot to Sacramento … perhaps from Aberdeen。 Anyway； there
never was any one more Scotch in this wide world。 He could
sing and dance； and drink； I presume； and he played the pipes
with vigour and success。 All the Scotch in Sacramento became
infatuated with him； and spent their spare time and money；
driving him about in an open cab； between drinks； while he
blew himself scarlet at the pipes。 This is a very sad story。
After he had borrowed money from ever