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Toll House？ … with its city throng； its jostling shoulders；
its infinity of instant business in the bar？ The mind would
not receive it！ The heartfelt bustle of that hour is hardly
credible； the thrill of the great shower of letters from the
post…bag； the childish hope and interest with which one gazed
in all these strangers' eyes。 They paused there but to pass：
the blue…clad China…boy； the San Francisco magnate； the
mystery in the dust coat； the secret memoirs in tweed； the
ogling； well…shod lady with her troop of girls； they did but
flash and go； they were hull…down for us behind life's ocean；
and we but hailed their topsails on the line。 Yet； out of
our great solitude of four and twenty mountain hours； we
thrilled to their momentary presence gauged and divined them；
loved and hated； and stood light…headed in that storm of
human electricity。 Yes； like Piccadilly circus； this is also
one of life's crossing…places。 Here I beheld one man；
already famous or infamous； a centre of pistol…shots： and
another who； if not yet known to rumour； will fill a column
of the Sunday paper when he comes to hang … a burly； thick…
set； powerful Chinese desperado； six long bristles upon
either lip； redolent of whiskey； playing cards； and pistols；
swaggering in the bar with the lowest assumption of the
lowest European manners； rapping out blackguard English oaths
in his canorous oriental voice； and combining in one person
the depravities of two races and two civilizations。 For all
his lust and vigour； he seemed to look cold upon me from the
valley of the shadow of the gallows。 He imagined a vain
thing； and while he drained his cock…tail； Holbein's death
was at his elbow。 Once； too； I fell in talk with another of
these flitting strangers … like the rest； in his shirt…
sleeves and all begrimed with dust … and the next minute we
were discussing Paris and London； theatres and wines。 To
him； journeying from one human place to another； this was a
trifle； but to me！ No； Mr。 Lillie； I have not forgotten it。
And presently the city…tide was at its flood and began to
ebb。 Life runs in Piccadilly Circus； say； from nine to one；
and then； there also； ebbs into the small hours of the
echoing policeman and the lamps and stars。 But the Toll
House is far up stream； and near its rural springs； the
bubble of the tide but touches it。 Before you had yet
grasped your pleasure； the horses were put to； the loud whips
volleyed； and the tide was gone。 North and south had the two
stages vanished； the towering dust subsided in the woods； but
there was still an interval before the flush had fallen on
your cheeks； before the ear became once more contented with
the silence； or the seven sleepers of the Toll House dozed
back to their accustomed corners。 Yet a little； and the
ostler would swing round the great barrier across the road；
and in the golden evening； that dreamy inn begin to trim its
lamps and spread the board for supper。
As I recall the place … the green dell below； the spires of
pine； the sun…warm； scented air； that gray； gabled inn； with
its faint stirrings of life amid the slumber of the mountains
… I slowly awake to a sense of admiration； gratitude； and
almost love。 A fine place； after all； for a wasted life to
doze away in … the cuckoo clock hooting of its far home
country； the croquet mallets； eloquent of English lawns； the
stages daily bringing news of … the turbulent world away
below there； and perhaps once in the summer； a salt fog
pouring overhead with its tale of the Pacific。
A STARRY DRIVE
IN our rule at Silverado； there was a melancholy interregnum。
The queen and the crown prince with one accord fell sick；
and； as I was sick to begin with； our lone position on Mount
Saint Helena was no longer tenable； and we had to hurry back
to Calistoga and a cottage on the green。 By that time we had
begun to realize the difficulties of our position。 We had
found what an amount of labour it cost to support life in our
red canyon； and it was the dearest desire of our hearts to
get a China…boy to go along with us when we returned。 We
could have given him a whole house to himself； self…
contained； as they say in the advertisements； and on the
money question we were prepared to go far。 Kong Sam Kee； the
Calistoga washerman； was entrusted with the affair； and from
day to day it languished on； with protestations on our part
and mellifluous excuses on the part of Kong Sam Kee。
At length； about half…past eight of our last evening； with
the waggon ready harnessed to convey us up the grade； the
washerman； with a somewhat sneering air； produced the boy。
He was a handsome； gentlemanly lad； attired in rich dark
blue； and shod with snowy white； but； alas！ he had heard
rumours of Silverado。 He know it for a lone place on the
mountain…side； with no friendly wash…house near by； where he
might smoke a pipe of opium o' nights with other China…boys；
and lose his little earnings at the game of tan； and he first
backed out for more money； and then； when that demand was
satisfied； refused to come point…blank。 He was wedded to his
wash…houses； he had no taste for the rural life； and we must
go to our mountain servantless。 It must have been near half
an hour before we reached that conclusion； standing in the
midst of Calistoga high street under the stars； and the
China…boy and Kong Sam Kee singing their pigeon English in
the sweetest voices and with the most musical inflections。
We were not； however； to return alone； for we brought with us
Joe Strong； the painter； a most good…natured comrade and a
capital hand at an omelette。 I do not know in which capacity
he was most valued … as a cook or a companion； and he did
excellently well in both。
The Kong Sam Kee negotiation had delayed us unduly； it must
have been half…past nine before we left Calistoga； and night
came fully ere we struck the bottom of the grade。 I have
never seen such a night。 It seemed to throw calumny in the
teeth of all the painters that ever dabbled in starlight。
The sky itself was of a ruddy； powerful； nameless； changing
colour； dark and glossy like a serpent's back。 The stars； by
innumerable millions； stuck boldly forth like lamps。 The
milky way was bright； like a moonlit cloud； half heaven
seemed milky way。 The greater luminaries shone each more
clearly than a winter's moon。 Their light was dyed in every
sort of colour … red； like fire； blue； like steel； green；
like the tracks of sunset； and so sharply did each stand
forth in its own lustre that there was no appearance of that
flat； star…spangled arch we know so well in pictures； but all
the hollow of heaven was one chaos of contesting luminaries …
a hurry…burly of stars。 Against this the hills and rugged
treetops stood out redly dark。
As we continued to advance； the lesser lights and milky ways
first grew pale； and then vanished； the countless hosts of
heaven dwindled in number by successive millions； those that
still shone had tempered their exceeding brightness and
fallen back into their customary wistful distance； and the
sky declined from its first bewildering splendour into the
appearance of a common night。 Slowly this change proceeded；
and still there was no sign of any cause。 Then a whiteness
like mist was thrown over the spurs of the mountain。 Yet a
while； and； as we turned a corner； a great leap of silver
light and net of forest shadows fell across the road and upon
our wondering waggonful； and； swimming low among the trees；
we beheld a strange； misshapen； waning moon； half…tilted on
her back。
〃Where are ye when the moon appears？〃 so the old poet sang；
half…taunting； to the stars； bent upon a courtly purpose。
〃As the sunlight round the dim earth's midnight tower of
s